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July in the Edible Garden

    We are entering July, the heart of the summer growing season. Spring plantings have run their course. Harvest of summer vegetables is beginning and there is still time to plant warm weather crops. With an average first frost date of October 15-25 in our hardiness zone 7a, pay attention to the time-to-harvest information of the crops you plant to be sure you give them enough time to mature before frost risk becomes too high. Also, if you plan on making a fall planting, look at where you want to plant which crops, considering crop rotations for disease and pest management and shading by mature or trellised plantings.

    It is still ok to plant beans, cucumbers, melons, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, corn, sweet potatoes and tomatoes, but best to do it soon to be confident of harvesting prior to frost. Check the Vegetable Harvest Guide from the Iowa State Extension for typical time from seed planting to harvest for common garden vegetables. For a listing of recommended planting times for hardiness zones 6a-8a refer to VA Cooperative Extension (VCE) publication Virginia’s Home Garden Vegetable Planting Guide.

    Planting time for fall crops like lettuces, cabbage family crops and greens begins in early to mid-August so begin to prepare beds for those plantings. Remove spent plants, composting them if not diseased and if they haven’t set seed. Otherwise, it is best to dispose of them.

    If you started a compost batch in the spring, it should be maturing now. Screening it and adding the finished material to beds prior to planting will give fall plants a good start. Organic fertilizers can also be added to beds prior to planting to give soil life a chance to make nutrients accessible to the new crops. Find basic fertilization info in the Garden Shed article A Fertilization Primer: Plant Needs, Fertilizer Choices and Application Tips.

    Maintaining Plant Health

    Rotating crops is an important priority to minimize disease and pest proliferation. A three-year cycle is recommended.

    Splashing soil onto plants during watering is a common mistake that can spread soil borne diseases onto crops. Water at the plant base, as gently as possible to minimize splashing. A light straw or leaf mulch can help prevent soil splashing while helping to conserve soil moisture during hot, dry summer weather.

    Watering early in the day is best to help prevent fungal diseases.

    Advice for Tomato Growers

    Tomatoes are a prized summer crop for many of us. It is best to support plants with stakes or cages. If you use stakes, tie plants loosely to the stake with a soft twine or cloth strip. Add ties to give support as plants grow and fruits develop. Prune lower leaves that touch the ground to reduce susceptibility to soil pathogens. Allow up to two main stems and pinch off all other “suckers” that sprout at leaf/stem intersections to focus the plant on fruit production rather than vegetative growth.

    Sucker at tomato leaf-stem joint: Photo: R Morini

    Cages require more upfront investment and off-season storage space but reduce plant maintenance during the growing season. If you use cages, prune plants to 3 or 4 main stems. The additional vegetation will help protect fruit from sun scald.

    In all cases, remove diseased foliage with shears disinfected with a 10% bleach solution. Bag and remove it with your trash. As noted above, mulching helps maintain moisture, hold down weeds, and reduce soil splash during watering.

    A more complete guide to growing tomatoes is provided in the VCE publication Tomatoes.

    Summer Pests

    Summer is the peak activity period for many garden pests. Get help dealing with pests from the June 2022 Garden Shed article Eleven Common Garden Pests: Identification and Management.

    For more help identifying insects check the video Garden Insects: Friend or Foe, from the University of Georgia Extension.

    The list below offers other ideas to help maintain garden health during July:

    • Watering is extra important in the hotter months, affecting overall plant health, and the taste and texture of many vegetables. The garden typically needs about an inch of water per week, more during very hot periods. Early morning is the best time to water. Giving leaves time to dry before dark reduces susceptibility to fungal diseases.
    • Rain barrels are a great tool for reducing summer water use. They can reduce runoff, conserve water resources, and reduce water/sewer bills.  Natural rainwater is also better for plants than chlorinated water. They are located under downspouts. Rainwater passes through a diverter that sends it to the barrel. When the barrel is full, the water is sent back down the downspout. Rain barrel water isn’t considered potable and can pick up pathogens from fecal matter on roofs, so should be applied to the base of plants, not sprayed on foliage. The benefits of rain barrels are discussed in the publication Rain Barrels from Penn State Extension.
    Stirrup hoe weed removal. Photo: R Morini
    • It’s important to control weeds around vegetables because weeds can out-compete vegetable plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight. The best method of control is by mechanical extraction, meaning good old-fashioned weed-pulling or the use of a hoe. For small weeds, the “stirrup” hoe (also called “hoop” or “scuffle” hoe) is recommended because its shallow soil penetration removes weeds without bringing weed seeds to the surface where they can germinate. It’s also easy on the knees and back.
    Fusarium wilt of basil (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. basilicum)
Debbie Roos, NCSU Agricultural Extension Agent, Chatham County, NC
    • Fusarium wilt of Basil is a fungal disease specific to sweet basil. The fungus attacks the water-conducting tissue (xylem) within the stem. Infected plants will grow normally until they are six to twelve inches tall, then suddenly wilt. The stem may become curved and develop brown streaks. The fungus can over-winter and survive many years as spores, ready to cause new infections in basil or other mint family members that are planted in the same soil. There is currently no fungicide approved for its treatment, but it can be controlled somewhat by removing diseased plants, rotating planting locations, and by planting disease-resistant varieties. Additional information on basil is available from the NC State Extension publication Basil Problem and from Garden Shed article Basil: Beautiful and Aromatic.
    • Cucumbers develop a bitter taste if the soil is not kept consistently moist. Leaf mulch will help maintain soil moisture.
    • Harvest cucumbers for pickling when they reach 2-4 inches in length; for table use, harvest when no longer than 5-6 inches. Remove over-ripe cucumbers to encourage continuous production.
    • Withhold water on potatoes when the plants begin to die down. Water and fertilizer may disturb the dormancy stage and cause regrowth, and may also cause potatoes to crack.
    • If you use insecticides on vegetables, always check the label to understand how long you need to wait before safely harvesting and eating.

    I hope you find this information helpful and look forward to sharing ideas again next month.

    Sources:

    Feature image: Mid-June Edible Garden, Photo: R Morini

    Ralph Morini

    Ralph Morini

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