How to Remove English Ivy

The neighbors were skeptical: “Wow”, “yikes”, “have fun”, “good luck with that!” I was giving them a heads-up that I was finally removing the English ivy – mixed in with vinca, honeysuckle, Virginia creeper, wisteria, and of course poison ivy – from 1600 sq. ft. along the back edge of my yard (header picture). And I won’t lie, it took some elbow grease, a little ibuprofen, and about 20 hours on my hands and knees, but now I have a nice open space for native, non-invasive plants.

English ivy (Hedera helix) is native to Europe but has been grown in North America since the early 18^th century. Its usefulness as ground cover is undeniable: it’s evergreen, grows quickly, and tolerates shade, drought, and a variety of soil types. These characteristics, of course, also make it easy for English ivy to spread where it isn’t wanted. Notably, English ivy can climb – and destabilize – walls, fences, and trees (Picture 1). What’s more, few native insects or birds feed on its leaves and seeds. For these reasons, many gardeners these days are removing English ivy and replacing it with less aggressive ground cover that supports native species.

After a little reading – my sources are listed at the end of the article – I decided to remove my English ivy by simply cutting it out. But it’s worth mentioning other methods that might be useful under the right circumstances:

1. Herbicides. Herbicide sprays are usually ineffective because mature English ivy leaves have a waxy coating that sheds liquids. However, immature leaves, which are bright green and appear in the spring, will absorb herbicides like glyphosate/Roundup. Spot application might be a good way to tidy up the inevitable regrowth after manual removal. (And as discussed below, concentrated herbicides can be used on large roots that can’t be pulled out.)
2. Occlusion. A thick tarp or heavy plastic sheeting can kill English ivy by blocking sunlight and depleting the energy stored in the roots. The main drawback to this method is that it’s slow: it can take two years to fully wipe out the ivy’s extensive root system.
3. Repeated mowing. Mowing will remove the ivy’s leaves, which will then grow back. But if the new leaves are then mowed back, allowed to regrow, mowed back again, etc., eventually the roots’ energy stores will be depleted. (It would be interesting to try spraying glyphosate on the new leaves that regrow after mowing, but I haven’t read any reports of this.)

   

Removing English ivy

The tools for manually removing English ivy are pretty simple (Picture 2): clippers, shovel, and rake (if the ivy is covered by leaves). In addition, use personal protective gear: long pants, boots, and rubber gloves. This is because English ivy has the little-known property of triggering a skin rash similar to the one caused by poison ivy. Mostly the sap of the English ivy causes the rash, as opposed to the leaves, but manual removal involves a lot of cutting of stems and roots, and therefore a lot of exposure to sap. (Impress your friends and family: the main allergen in English ivy is falcarinol, as opposed to urushiol in poison ivy.)

Start by cutting the vines with a shovel or edging tool in two parallel lines (Picture 3), making a strip about 4 feet wide. This is the really critical step because it ensures you won’t be trying to pull long vines out of the ground. Then rake away the leaves on the strip between the shovel cuts (Picture 4) – no need to remove them along with the ivy.

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Next, use clippers to cut across the trimmed and raked strip, perpendicular to the initial shovel cuts (Picture 5, step 1). Cut right at ground level, or even a little below, to make sure to cut the roots and not just the vines. While cutting, pull the freed vines back towards you, making a loose pile and exposing the soil (Picture 5, step 2). Then simply work backwards, cutting across and pulling back, until the entire strip is free of ivy (Picture 6). It took me about an hour to clear one 4 by 20 foot strip.

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After that, it’s just a matter of repetition. Make a new cut with the shovel to create another 4-foot strip. Rake the leaves if desired, then dive in with the clippers to remove the ivy. Proceed one 4-foot strip at a time (Pictures 7 and 8), until the area is cleared (Picture 9).

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A couple of “technical” points: (1) It’s possible to pull out many of the shallower roots entirely, rather than merely cutting them off at soil level. No guarantees, but I think this should reduce regrowth. To do this, work the clippers under the roots and gently pull them up to the surface, without breaking them (Picture 10). Then pull horizontally, i.e. parallel to the ground, to free the ends of the roots (Picture 11). And (2) For large root stumps still in the soil, consider “painting” some concentrated glyphosate/Roundup on the cut ends with a cotton swab.

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Finally, how best to dispose of the vines? Don’t just dump them on a compost or brush pile because they may re-root. Even shredding vines with a lawnmower or wood-chipper could leave pieces large enough to grow new roots. A good option is to dry the vines thoroughly on a tarp or piece of pavement, then shred them. Another method is to put the vines in black trash bags and leave them in the sun for several weeks, until they’ve “cooked” enough to be non-viable. Personally, I took advantage of Charlottesville’s excellent $35 bulk pickup service.

Final thoughts, a few months after removal

I removed the vines from the ground in December 2021. Six or seven months later, I’m honestly surprised by how little English ivy is growing back. I’ve checked the cleared area every few weeks this spring, and I’d say that no more than a couple dozen English ivy sprouts have emerged. They’ve been easy to find and remove, but I’m sure that it will be at least a few years before the last remnants of the vines are gone.

The next challenge for this area will be the seeds that have been lurking under the vines. Mostly I’m concerned about Japanese stiltgrass (PDF link), which has already taken over another corner of the yard. To tackle this, I’ll be relying on invasive species alert emails from the Blue Ridge Partnership for Invasive Species Management (PRISM), which describe timing and methods for controlling the most common invasive species in the Virginia Piedmont.

The good news, though, is that the area is mostly clear of invasive plants. And now I have a fantastic blank slate for native, deer-resistant, shade-loving wildflowers, shrubs, and understory trees that will provide habitat and sustenance for birds and insects and maybe even – I’m thinking of trying to grow ramps out there – the local two-legged mammals.

References and further reading

Blue Ridge Partnership for Invasive Species Management (PRISM) Blue Ridge PRISM

Controlling English Ivy in Urban Landscapes North Carolina Cooperative Extension

English Ivy- Friend or Foe? North Carolina Cooperative Extension

Pest Alert – English Ivy Rash North Carolina Cooperative Extension

English Ivy Control Clemson Cooperative Extension

Ivy Removal in a Home Landscape Oregon State University Extension Service

English Ivy Can Be Contained Oregon State University Extension Service

Managing Invasive Plants: Methods of Control (PDF link) University of New Hampshire Extension

Take Ivy Off Trees Tree Stewards of Arlington and Alexandria, Virginia [This topic wasn’t covered in this article but for safety reasons – see Picture 1 – it’s critically important.]

All pictures by the author.